CarX Street Drift Tuning Guide (Full Settings + Drift Setup Guide)

What's going on guys? Extra here and we are finally back on CarX Street diving into the nitty-gritty of drift tuning. Now, this is a super highly requested video and it's super technical which means it's going to be a very, very long one most likely. So, go grab yourself a snack, get a beer, make a coffee, whatever it is that is your flavor today and strap in for a long one. We're going to be covering everything today from car choice, gearbox choice, engine choice, all these little things, even down to game settings and tire pressures and stuff like that. All these things all add up and compound to make your drift car feel super super incredible in the end. So, you're not going to want to miss any of it. Before we get started, if you can do me a favor, go down below, drop a like, leave a hype, leave a comment. If you're feeling super zesty, you can even subscribe so you don't miss any new content coming out from me in the future. All these little things add up and help support me so I can keep making videos like this. This isn't my job. This is a very timeconsuming thing and I just do it in my free time. So, all of your support is super super super appreciated. I can't stress that enough. Now, let's dive straight into the first part of this video. All right, so we're in game now and the first thing we're going to go over is settings. And now, truth be told, this game is super super easy to drift in. And you can pretty much buy any car from the dealership that's rear wheel drive. Put street tires on it, and it's super easy to drift just straight away. But in order for it to be easy, you need to have the right settings set up in your uh in your settings menu for assists and controller binds and things like that. So, let's just dive straight into that and I'll show you exactly what I'm talking about here. So, if we go into our settings menu here, the thing we're really going to be looking at is our assists. Now, the first thing, gearbox, we definitely want on manual. The clutch is a super useful tool for drifting. And once you learn how to use it, you're going to be using it almost like every couple of second. It's very, very, very important for things like clutch kicking, especially depending on what engine you're using. It can be more or less useful. Tandeming, it's extremely useful. Doing entries, things like that. It's a very, very helpful tool. It doesn't matter if you have this on automatic or manual. Just as long as you have a button to press that activates the clutch. So definitely you want to learn manual. It's going to be super hard to drift with automatic. Going down further, all this vibration and stuff doesn't matter. And here is the most important setting. If you're a new player since consoles come out or a console player in like in particular, for some reason this is off by default. I don't know why. I think it's because the developers have kind of been pushing this narrative that this is not a drifting game. Um, so they have it off by default. And by the way, it doesn't even do what it says. When it's off, it still counter steers and when it like it does essentially the same thing. All this does is changes the way that your left analog stick behaves when uh when you're trying to counter steer. So when it's off, it essentially doesn't counter steer unless you actively push back in the other direction. Uh when it's on, it's always counter steering for you. always doing it automatically. Um, so when it when it's off, it feels like to me that it just adds input lag and gives you less precision when you're drifting, which is super strange. Um, and if you've got this off, definitely definitely turn it on. Um, the best way I can explain this is when it's on, this game feels like CarX Drift Racing Online, and when it's off, it kind of handles like BMG. So, um, you definitely want to switch it on because I think we all know what the better game is for drifting. It's obviously Drift Racing Online. and that's the game everyone loves and everyone has still been playing for Drifting ever since it came out. So, uh, switch this on even if you've been playing with it off for a while. Um, just put it on and take some time to get used to it because I promise you it is way better. And this is this was on by default when the game came out, by the way. This is a new setting. It never used to exist. I didn't even realize that it was off by default um, for most people cuz it's always been on for me and it's what I've been playing with since the game came out. It's how the game was designed to be played. And for some reason, they made it like turn offable. I don't know why. So, definitely switch that on. And then the next settings we're going to want to look at down here is our stabilization settings. This is another one um that was never in the game when the game launched. And it used to just be 100 was like default basically before this existed. Um I set these at 50 because I still like having some assistance. Uh to me, I find this is a relaxing game to play for me. If I wanted to play a super realistic simulator game, I would just go play a set of Corsair and use my wheel, but I like being able to sit down and I like to zone out a little bit and veg out after work. So, having some assistance is very helpful. Um, this is a very personal preference setting. Having it higher is going to make the car feel more resistant to angle and it's going to help keep you nice and smooth. Um, having it lower is going to give you more freedom, but it's and it's going to let you do more aggressive driving. Um, but you are going to be more likely to spin out and things like that. So, you can kind of counteract it with your tuning, but for the most part, if you like doing aggressive driving, you're going to want to have this lower. If you like doing smoother driving, like low grip tandemss and things like that and big tandem trains, it's probably going to be more helpful to have it higher. Um, it's really, really personal preference. I don't really think one's necessarily easier than the other. It's just a different kind of style of driving. So, play around with this and see where you like it. I personally just leave it straight back in the middle. I think you can get the best of both worlds whilst you're drifting. The car feels super smooth, but it's low enough assistance levels that it lets you kind of throw the car around and do big entries and things like that. And then the last assist thing here is this drive assist settings. I don't even know why they added this as an option. I'm assuming it's probably for some weird input devices and things like that, like maybe joysticks or unsupported wheels, but you never want to turn this down. It's a horrible setting. Just leave it on standard. Promise you do not want to touch this. I'm going to show you my keybinds because I think my keybinds are a big part of why the drifting in this feels so fluid and so easy. Um, and if you played Forsa Horizon on manual with clutch, you are going to recognize these because these are the same um key binds or controller binds I've been using for manual with clutch since Forsa Horizon 1 on Xbox 360. So, a very, very long time. Um, so obviously um I actually use Yeah, I'll unplug it so I can show you. I use a PS4 controller. I know the controls are showing up in Xbox. I don't know why I haven't been able to fix that, but uh I digress. Uh we have throttle and brake are obviously on triggers. My clutch is on L1 or LB, which if you've played fours, you're going to recognize that. Handbrake is on X or A. Shift up is on X or square. And then shift down is on circle, which is B. And then they're really all the buttons that we're going to be using for drifting. We don't really touch anything else. Um, this layout also got it right all those years ago and it's never changed it. And for some reason, I don't know why these other games don't also adopt it. This kind of makes it makes sense in my brain because now all the pedals all happen on the back here and all the hand controls like steering and gears all happen here on the front with my fingers. Um, it just makes things really make sense. And uh everyone who I've told to try these settings has put them on has never changed them back by the way. So there's got to be some merit to that. Um they feel super super fluent once you get used to them. And you can press all the buttons at the same time which is really really nice. All right. So now we've got the settings dialed in. Let's dive straight into car choice. Now there's a few things that going to weigh on what kind of cars are going to be better in this game. Things like weight distribution, width, um even the engines that come in them. And some cars just have more grip. And depending on your driving style, some of these cars are going to be better and some are going to be worse. So, I'm going to kind of give you an idea of what you should be picking. And I'm also going to buy one of these cars and it's going to we're going to carry these cars through this whole tuning guide. And at the end, we're going to end up with a fully built car from this moment here. So, diving into this straight away, Mustangs, the S65 and the S55 or F-35, whatever it's called. Both the modern Mustangs really, really, really good. They have these really lightweight V8s in them. You can see the weight distribution is incredible. For a weight distribution and drifting, you want around the 50 to 55 front weight, and that's going to that's going to be the most balanced feeling weight distribution for transitions and things like that. Um, you don't want to go rear weight because that's going to put a lot of grip into the rear wheels, and it's going to make the car handle a little bit funny when you're transitioning. So, if you're picking a car that I don't mention here, just keep that in mind. The A86 is probably on the most nimble and aggressive side you can get in this game. Very, very, very fast transitioning, very lightweight, very nimble, very aggressive. The E36 and the E46, both incredible cars. Very, very balanced feeling. They have kind of the best of both worlds. They're very smooth, but also very nimble, very responsive, very aggressive. And the stock BMW engines for these cars are amazing. So, you can definitely try one of them out. the 180 SX. It's the starter car for when the consoles came out. Very, very good car. I love the engine that comes in this. It's the CA18. Uh, all the S chassis, really, really good. So, the S13, uh, the S14, S15, like I said, the S15 is my favorite car in this game. I've got so many of them that I can't even fit any other cars in my garage anymore cuz I don't want to let go of any of the S15s that I've built. Uh, the RX7s, both very good. The Toyota Crown, super super car, super super good car. super slept on. Very, very long wheelbase. If you want a smooth car that transitions nice and controllably, pick this one. Supra, very, very good. It just feels a bit heavy, but it's got a lot of grip. The 350Z feels very similar to the S15 and the S14. Both the JZX100's are very strong. The MK2 bottoms out everywhere, though, so I would pick the Cresta if you're going to pick either of these. I also think the Crest has got better customization. If you want something American and you don't want a Mustang, the uh the Corvette, actually, the C6 Corvette is, in my opinion, probably the most slept on car in this entire game for drifting. It is so fast and it's kind of like a cheat code. It gets so much angle. It never spins out. It's an incredible car. So, if you want and it's a really, really long wheelbase, too, by the way. So, it feels really smooth and really wide, really planted. So, pick one of these cars. And I'm actually picking up the S15 and we're going to tune this car together. And we're going to go through all of the tuning options. We're going to go through engine options. We're going to go through everything. At the end of this video, you're going to have this same car that you picked now. And it's going to be an incredible drift car. So, let's get straight into the tuning shop. All right. So, we've bought the car and now we're in the tuning shop. It's time to make the first big tuning decision. That's going to be our engine swaps. And I've had to turn my face cam off here so you guys can see all the statistics on the side and I'm not covering anything up. So, I apologize for that. You can't see my beautiful face. But let's run through what matters the most when you're picking an engine. There's three things I like to look at, and it's our torque figures, our weight, and our boost pressure. These are three things that are really, really going to affect what motors I like to pick. Firstly, let's look at our weight. So, you can see at the top of the screen there, there's a little picture of a car, three numbers. These show our weight statistics. So, this stock motor SR20 in this car has 52% front. And I mentioned when we're picking a car, we want a 51 to 55% front weight distribution is roughly the sweet spot for a drift car. If we were to go in and say put an LS swap in this car, look what it does to that front weight distribution. This engine is super heavy and it's almost 57% on the front. That's not going to fly. This engine's going to feel absolutely terrible. Say we swapped this RB26 in 54.9% front. That's right on the cusp. But if you upgrade this motor and put ultimate parts onto it, those parts are actually lighter. So it brings the weight of the engine down and we might end up around a 54.5 to 54% which is well within that kind of sweet spot of that 51 to 55% weight on the front axle. So keep that in mind when you're picking a motor. The next thing you want to look at is our torque figures. So if we have a look at this stock engine, our torque figures on the right there. So in that component features list, torque at low, torque at medium, torque at high. What we want to see is an engine that promotes low and medium torque. As our high-end torque is completely irrelevant for drifting, having a good torque at low and torque at medium balance compared to torque at high is going to improve the driveability in all kinds of drift scenarios. Why we need to look at this is because if we go into my inventory here, for example, this is the Lamborghini Huracan motor. If we look at the torque figures on the right, you can see it has a really, really, really high torque at high number. You could see how much we have to sacrifice our torque at low and torque at medium to get that torque at high figure. What this means is this car, every single time you pull the handbrake, every single time you slow down for an entry or you're behind someone, you need to slow down, you're left foot braking to tandem with someone, this car is going to bog if you use this motor. So then you want to look for engines. For example, this V8 out of the uh BMW M5 wagon. Look at the torque figures here. This is such an easy motor to drive. The torque at low is so high compared to medium and high. That leads into our next thing which I mentioned which is turbine pressure. Back to this Huracan engine again. If you haven't noticed, by the way, this engine sucks for drifting. Turbine pressure there on the right. 1.35 bar. For this car to be making full power, you need to build up, you know, 1.35 bar of boost. There's a little turbo gauge on the right hand side next to the speedometer. You see it at the bottom left. Every single time I let off the throttle, that boost gauge drops. So, the higher the uh turbine pressure is, the longer it's going to take after being on the brakes or after being on the handbrake or being off throttle for that boost to build up. which means similar to having no low-end torque, having a really, really, really high boost pressure means that every single time you get back on throttle in these low speed situations, you aren't going to have any power. So, you want to find a car that has a good balance of turbine pressure, low-end torque, and weight. All right, so now that we've picked our engine, let's go through and upgrade it. And I'm going to show you there is a certain order of upgrades that I like to do to these motors to make sure I'm getting the most out of them for drift performance specifically. So the first thing I always do is I go engine block. That's the first thing I always upgrade and cylinder head. So what these things do is they unlock our torque at low and torque at medium tuning adjustments. And like I've just said when we were picking our uh what kind of motor we want to run, these are the two most important statistics to make a car more drivable for drifting. All right. Beyond that, we want to go intake manifold to increase our peak RPM and it also increases the entire graph overall. And then we want to do our exhausts and our exhaust manifold. So, these things are going to help lighten the engine up. And then fuel system as well, cuz that brings up the entire graph. And then these are the last three things left I try and upgrade and leave to the to the end cuz these all have downsides. So, cam shaft is probably the next thing on the list cuz this whilst it does boost torque at high, it also brings up medium and low. And you don't have to tune up the uh the slider in the tuning options here for it. So you can leave it low. So we're still getting the maximum out of our other other two sliders, our low and medium torque. This is where we start diving into negatives. So both turbos and ECUs are both going to be increasing our turbine pressure. You can see there on the right, both of them do. I would prioritize the ECU before the turbo because, as you can see, turbos are actually pretty heavy. you can if you put an ultimate turbocharger on, you're going up plus 22 kilos on the front, whereas an ECU doesn't weigh anything. So ECU is definitely definitely the peak of the two. But as you can see, as we go up in ECUs, we're also increasing our turbine pressure. So, what I would probably do here is maybe go up to the red ECU at most if you can uh if you can do that and get close to what class you want to be. And then we're at 284. So, then I like to run at the top of C4. So, what we can do also because this engine graph is going to dip down a lot, I'm not actually going to raise this rev limiter. If you can raise this rev limiter and your torque is either flat or increasing, definitely do it. With the S15, the stock motor, it's not necessary at all. And then turbine pressure, we're at 293. So, what we can do is we can go ahead and we can bump this up a little bit. That's going to get us to 301. Then just back it off a tiny bit. 299 perfectly slotted in right there at the top of C4. And we're only at 0.71 turbo pressure. This car stock is 0.6. And because we've increased all of our torque numbers here, we've got a much much much wider power band. Um, and the car is going to have a lot of drivability from maxing out these uh torque at low and torque at medium. So, just to go back over that again, order of priority, engine block, cylinder head, intake manifold. Then we want our exhausts, fuel system, and cam shafts. And only then do you start looking at turbo kits and ECU, but ECU first, then turbo. All right, we have an engine setup. So now let's go into our drivetrain setup here. So that's going to be our gearbox, differential, transmission, drivetrain, and our clutch. If we're running manual clutch, you don't need to install a clutch. Um, but I'm going to assume that a lot of you guys probably use automatic clutch cuz it's more comfortable. So, you're going to want to go ahead and do the ultimate clutch. And first thing we're going to do with that is just turn down our gear shift speed so that when we are doing shifting without the clutch, they're as fast as they possibly can be. Um, if you use manual clutch, it overwrites the gear shift speed. So, you don't need this upgrade at all. You do not need to install an ultimate differential in a drift car or even a clutch 45. For the most part, you will want to stick with either viscous or welded. Open diff. Never use it in this game. It's terrible. I've been over that before. Ignore it. But welded and viscous are our two favorite diffs for drifting just out of simplicity sake and consistency. If you're learning how to drift in this game, I would 100% start with the welder diff. So, the welded diff is the most consistent scenario you can place on yourself when it comes to the rear end of the car. It is just always locked. So, it doesn't matter what you're doing. And you could have the clutch in the brakes on full throttle doing a crazy big entry chasing someone. The two rear wheels are always going to be doing the exact same thing. You can always expect exactly what's going to happen. You can anticipate everything. It never does anything strange. The only downside to the welder diff is that it can slow you down sometimes. Start with the welded and learn how to tandem and how to lead with the welded diff in the car. Once you've gotten good at that and you want to start picking up some more pace, that's when I'd switch to the viscous diff. And I've covered what the viscous diff does in more detail in my full tuning guide for grip racing if you want to go check that out. Um, but as a general rundown is it has two friction plates in it with oil between them. And as the wheels unlock and the oil heats up, um, there is more friction created there. So the differential locks. So, this gives us a very, very, very smooth and very predictable locking action. You can really, really, really easily predict when it's going to unlock and when you're going to gain speed. With this viscous diff install, we get this differential locking option. This is just a basic slider that adjusts our preload. So, 100% preload is basically a welded diff. Where I like to run it is at 80 as a baseline all the time for every single one of my drift cars. I start at 80. I always install a viscous diff at 80. The lower down you have this, the more the diff is going to unlock on high-speed corners. So, when you don't have much angle on transitions and when you're pressing in the clutch and you'll know that it's too low when you're going on a high-speed corner and the car wants to straighten out because that's when the diff's unlocking. So, I I generally find 75 to 80 is the sweet spot and normally where I keep all my cars. Um, but if I'm doing a very competition focused car, then maybe I'll run it at 6570. And just as a general rule of thumb, higher is slower, lower is more speed. That's all you need to think about when you're using this diff. Moving on from that, we have our transmission. You're just always going to want to go ultimate transmission here. So, we unlock all of our gear ratio tuning and we can lower our drivetrain loss all the way down, which means more power is getting to the rear wheels. What I like to do here is I always kind of go around this 3.8ish final drive. It's a very realistic final drive. And you'll find that stock S15 transmission here is very good. Um a very has a very good gear ratio. And if you go around this 3.6 to 3.9 gear ratio on basically every single stock transmission in this game, you're going to have a very very drivable car. What I actually do, which is not necessary, but I put the T50 gearbox in every single drift car I own. So, gear shift speed all the way down, of course. Then, we're going to bring our final drive up to 3.7. First gear, you want to click left once. Second gear, click right once. Third gear, click right once, fourth gear, fourth gear, click right once, and bring our drivetrain loss down. And that's it. Your transmission's done. I found this is the perfect gear ratio for all of my drift cars running like a 17, 18, 19inch wheel. The only time you're ever going to need to change this is probably going to be in these two scenarios. If you're running a car that has very small or very big wheels. So, small wheels means you're going to have a higher wheel speed, which means you need a lower final drive to extend your gear ratio to match what you were at before. And then same with bigger wheels, we need to shorten our gearbox. The only other scenario you would need to adjust this is if you have a very high or very low revving car. Similar to different wheel sizes, if you have a very very high revving car, because the RPMs are so much higher, you need a shorter gearbox to get the same wheel speed. So let's say you have a rotary that revs up to like 10,000 RPM, you're going to want a shorter gear ratio. Otherwise, you're going to be your gears are going to feel extremely extremely long. And then in the opposite scenario, if you have a very low revving engine, for example, the V8 out of the van only revs up to like 4 12,000 RPM. So, in that scenario, you'd probably want to bring this down to like a 3.2 to make our gears nice and long. And that's going to mean that at 4,000 RPM, we're going to have the same wheel speed as if we had 7,000 RPM with like a 37. And you can calculate this out and make it exact if you want, but really the best way is just to change it, then go for a drive, test it out, and then just adjust your final drive. It's one slider that you have to change. It's super super simple. So to the right, we're going to have shorter gears. To the left, we have longer gears. That's all you need to remember. All right, so with the engine sorted out and the transmission sorted out, we are on to the body section. Now, like I mentioned, there are quite a few things to do with weight that make a big difference for a drift car, such as the front to rear weight balance, the weight overall, and of course, the center of gravity makes a big difference here as well. I normally don't mess around with the weight reduction at all when it comes to my drift cars. I feel like it changes the physics of the car a little bit too much, especially if you're doing these body swap options here. One thing I do on every single drift car, though, is the fuel tank. And there's two reasons for that. One is obviously more fuel means you have to stop less so you can tan them for longer. And also you can see at the top see where our weight distribution numbers are. Having a larger fuel tank lowers our center of gravity. What that means for a drift car is a lower center of gravity is going to slow down our weight shifting and how drastic the weight pushes us from side to side. So things like transitions become a lot more controllable and a lot smoother. as well as big entries, the car is going to slow down a lot easier and it's just going to make the car more controllable overall. One thing I will say, sometimes if you run no fuel tank or if you say have weight reduction and you can adjust our center of mass height, having a higher center of mass is going to make the car flick faster. So, it's going to make a car more aggressive. Having this turned down is going to make the car smoother. So, if you really want a smooth tandem in car, lower the center of mass as much as possible. But like I said, I generally leave weight reduction stock and just go with the ultimate gas tank. Lowers our center of gravity a little bit. And this to me is the perfect setup for here. If you want the car to be a little bit faster, you can install a little bit of aerodynamics, but don't touch the front arrow. You don't want front grip. Um, and that's something that I'm going to get into when we get into suspension and tires. But we do not want to increase front grip. The only aerodynamics or downforce you'd ever want to add is rear arrow. I normally install street just because I like my cars to be a little bit faster. You can install sport, but you never you're never going to have to go higher than sport for a drift car. Otherwise, you're going to start running into problems where the car is not going to want to drift and it's going to be gripping up a lot on high-speed corners. So, this here is, in my opinion, the perfect body section setup for a drift car. All right. So, now that we have the engine, transmission, and body sorted out, we're going to move into suspension. Now, bear with me. This is going to be a long section cuz there's a lot of explaining to do. So, I've gone ahead and installed all ultimate parts here. If you have some prototype parts or you want to know which prototype parts to prioritize, always front suspension arms. The front suspension arms give you so much steering angle, it's ridiculous. I think the S15 goes up to 68° on the prototype arms, which is absolutely insane. But we've gone ahead and installed all Ultimate. I will say if you don't want to tune some of these more complicated things, there's a few areas here you can skimp out on. For example, sway bars. On a lot of my cars, I will simply just run this setup, so a sport front sway bar and leave the stock on on the rear or even go with no stabilizer on the rear. But for the sake of explaining how all the tuning works, we're going to install the ultimate here. And then dampers. A lot of the time, I just run sport dampers on my car because tuning the dampers can be a bit of a draining task. Um, we're going to go ahead and run the ultimate dampers so I can show you a perfect drift setup for the damper tuning and show you how to dial that in exactly. Okay, so the first thing we're actually going to look at here is our spring stiffness, not spring length. We're going to skip that and go straight to spring stiffness. And what the spring stiffness is going to adjust is our response and our grip levels. So, we want a very responsive front end. We want to promote as much grip as possible from the rear end. We don't actually want grip in the front of the car. And I'm going to explain why in a minute. But, uh, the way we want to set this up is obviously a stiffer spring is going to give us more response but less grip. And a softer spring is going to give us less response but more grip. And it kind of works a bit weird in a drift car because if you go too extreme either way, it's actually going to do the opposite of what you would expect. But a good baseline for spring stiffness is around 110 on the front and around 60 on the rear. And this is going to change depending on the car. So this car being a lot more balanced. So it's 5149 weight distribution, we can actually bring this front down quite a bit. And I know the S15 is pretty like aggressive and responsive already. So I would probably run it about 8560, sometimes even a little bit lower in the rear, but so lowering it in the rear is going to give us more rear grip. But of course, if we go too far, it's going to be way too soft and the back of the car is going to whip around a lot and it's going to react a lot to the weight of the car, which we don't want. We want it to absorb that weight and stay very planted. So 85 555 is pretty good. But a good a good starting point I would say if you're setting up any car go to 110 on the front and go to 60 on the rear. So from here now we can set our spring length. What we have to watch out for here specifically is on the rear end of the car. So if we have the spring length on the back slammed all the way down, you can see that there's no suspension travel. You can check by changing the spring stiffness. We have it set at 60. If I lower it, it doesn't move at all. So, the back of the car is way too low. We have no suspension travel. Find the point where the back of the car starts lifting up with spring length. Okay. And then what we're going to want to do is bring this up an entire an entire notch. So, now you can see we've got some movement here in the back end, which means it's going to be able to absorb some of the bumps. And then in terms of the front springs, we're actually at a pretty good height already. But what we want to look at here for front to rear height, we're going to want a little bit higher front compared to the rear. And what that's going to do is going to set a lot more of the weight to the back of the car and it's going to help drive those rear tires into the ground. Next up from here is our anti-roll bars. So, like I said, you can get away with running stock or no rear anti-roll bar because what we want to do is we're going to have our rear anti-roll bar really, really soft. What that's going to do is every time we transition or enter into a corner, the back of the car is going to roll and the outside wheel is going to dig into the road more and more weight is going to be placed there so that we can get maximum grip on the outside rear wheel, which is going to give us that drive to drive through the corners. For the front anti-roll bar, we're going to stiffen this right up. And where I wouldn't go all the way up to start, maybe for this car, our max is 77. So, I would bring it back not to this first big notch, maybe this second one right here. So, that's going to be 60 for us. What increasing the front rear anti-roll bar does is going to increase the front end response similar to making stiffer front springs. And it's also going to transfer the load because we're removing the independencies of the front two shocks. What it does is transfers that load to the back of the car. This is a phenomenon called suspension jacking. And what that does is it means it places more suspension compression and more suspension load on the rear wheels, which in turn gives us more grip. Yes, if you don't know this, we want more grip in drift cars, not less. Even if we're tandeming, you still want more grip. So, we want a very soft rear anti-roll bar and a very stiff front anti-roll bar. If you want the car to be a lot slower on transitions, you can lower this front anti-roll bar down. So lower is essentially going to make the car less snappy and more controllable and a lot smoother. Higher is going to make the car more aggressive and increase our grip levels and make the car way more responsive to like direction changes. Camber. So the most important camber setting is the back because we want our camber to be as close to zeroed out when the suspension is compressed. pretty much always put it at about zero in this graph because the suspension uh values you set here aren't actually the values that are on the car. They're not the live suspension values. So, I generally just start at zero. This is a good baseline. It means when the suspension's compressing, it's going to land somewhere around there. And we can dial this in afterwards for our fitment. And then front camber, we want to be somewhere between -6 and -10. And it's kind of come down to a personal preference. I generally lean towards more camber. So -98 somewhere around there is where I like to put the front of the car. This gives us a lot of control when we're at full lock, but it's also going to lower the grip enough by giving us less contact patch that the front tires can slide. What I was talking about how we want less front grip and more rear grip. This is where that starts to come in and where the entire theory behind this suspension tuning that I like kind of comes into play. So, we want to lower our front grip so that in extreme angle scenarios, rather than the front tires gripping up and stopping us from getting to really, really high angles, they actually slide instead. And sometimes you will see skid marks from the front tires because they lose grip, which is what you want in like scenarios where you're getting big reverse entries. It makes the car much easier to drive because in these high angle scenarios, rather than the car gripping up and just spinning out around the front wheels, the front tires will actually slide and kind of save you from spinning out. Moving on from camber, we have caster. And what this essentially does, it adjusts the amount of self steer. So the higher caster angle, the more self steer the car has, which is the tendency for the car to want to reenter itself and become straight. There are two things that this does. I like to run maximum caster on all my cars because what it does is I think it slows down the transition speed because it makes the car essentially feel like it's a little bit longer. The initial snap back to the middle is going to be a lot faster because again this speeds up our self centering speed of the steering wheel. So going from angle to straight is going to happen quickly. But then the process from being straight to being at maximum angle again is going to be much slower. So this is how you're going to get those really really really smooth lead lines. And then if you're chasing someone, having this maximum cast to slow down that period between no angle and really high angle means you can really really dial in your angle really really precisely because it's so it's so slowed down. It's almost like it happens in slow motion. If you want the car to feel super super nimble, you can lower this down. In real life, most drift cars run between 8 and 10°, sometimes 11. For example, my old I had an R33 that I used to drift in real life that ran 10 1/2° of caster. But in this game, the caster adjustment is kind of trivial. It doesn't really do a massive amount. So, I always find the benefits of running it at maximum way outweigh the downsides of running it anywhere else. If you want a really good baseline, I would just start at 10. If you want to copy my tune exactly, bump this all the way up to 13.8. Accean, this is the most highly argue debated tuning setting in this entire game is our Accean angle. And it's to be honest, not to sound rude or up myself, it's because I don't think most people even understand what this setting does. So what Acemen does it is it changes the difference in angle between both of the front wheels when we're steering. A high positive acan means that our inside wheel is turning more than our outside wheel. As you can see here, we look at our car here. And by the way, accean in this game is reversed. So zero accean is actually the most accean you can get. And you can see see that right wheel there just above the suspension tab. You can see how it's moving. So we're adding more positive acan, which means that's the inside wheel that's turning more. A lot of people seem to think running a 90 acam is the way to go. What this actually does is it makes both of these wheels 90 acam is basically no accean at all, which is not a very realistic setup. And what this does is it makes it feel like the car spins out really, really easily. And having both of these wheels turning at parallel actually gives us less steering angle. As you can see here, as we lower this Acan, this inside wheel here is turning more. This is our leading wheel when we're drifting. As you can see, as we as we play with this acan angle a little bit, this is changing the angle of this front wheel here. The more acceman we add here, which is what a lot of people are running in this game, actually means this front wheel, this wheel is turning less. This is our leading drift wheel. If we're drifting left hand down, say we're drifting this way, this is the wheel that our car is actually following. So, we ideally want this wheel to have as much angle as possible. If we lower this all the way, look how much angle this wheel has. We don't want to lower it all the way because this is going to have a negative effect because now this wheel is not turned very much. You can see, right? We're going to be limited by the angle of this wheel. Now, if we have it all the way down, but what we want to do, my personal opinion is the sweet spot is between 60 and 70. So, say we have our acriman set at 65. We now have more angle on this front leading wheel when we're in drift and less angle on this front wheel. This leading wheel is the one that drives all the decisions of where the car wants to go and how much angle is possible from the car. So people think running at 90 gives you more angle. It's not true. It just makes it harder to get more angle if you have the wrong tuning setup. If we run at 65, we now have more potential angle from this front leading wheel with this wheel turning less. But now remember, we've set our suspension up to remove grip from the front wheels. So when we're at a very, very, very high angle situation, rather than this wheel limiting how much angle we can gather because it's got less steering angle cuz of our Acan setup, this wheel is going to skid or drift along the ground. And you'll see skid marks sometimes with this setup. You'll see skid marks from this wheel because once we get to the maximum theoretical angle of this wheel, this car rather than gripping up and stopping us from drifting, this wheel slides, letting us reach this maximum angle. So in theory, if you could have no grip on the front wheels at all, having 10 acan in game is actually going to give us the most theoretical angle because look how much steering angle this this tire is at. Look how far this is turning compared to but then this wheel doesn't turn at all. But if you could make it so this wheel would always slip, you would have so much steering angle. So I would almost start somewhere around 50 amen. My favorite is 65. This is what I put on basically every single car. Um just keep in mind this is going to affect how the car feels when you're transitioning. So if you're running full 90 acam, so the wheels are parallel. The car is going to feel significantly more aggressive because you're not having the resistance of this back wheel stopping the car from rotating. The car is going to be very, very snappy, very agile, and it's going to feel like it spins out very easily. If you want the car to be a lot smoother, we can lower this acan angle down. I wouldn't go any lower than I would say probably 40. Once you get below 40, the car is just going to be comically slow. It's going to not want to really weight transfer at all, and it's going to feel very strange. And I typically try and stay just above 50. Anywhere between 55 and 65 is my perfect range. Moving down here, we have steering angle. We obviously just want to max that out. And next, we have wheelto. This is another one where I think people don't really understand what it does. So, if you want a full breakdown on what wheel toe does, you can check out my full grip tuning guide where I break down the science behind this and how it affects what's going on with the car. But in a drift car, adjusting our wheel toe, we want to leave this wheel toe on zero for the front. It adjusts the angle of where the wheels sit in a neutral position. So if we have negative wheel toe, this is toe out. That means the front of these wheels is going to point be pointing outwards away from the car. If we have an positive wheel toe, it means the front of the wheels is going to be pointing in towards the car. You can see how this would be problematic on a drift car because on the front, if we are messing with our toe angles, this is going to affect where these wheels are positioned when we're at angle. For the most part, we wanted we want to preserve our steering geometry. So, we don't want to touch front wheel toe. Rear wheel toe, however, is extremely important. So, like I said, having this positive toe means these front of these rear wheels is going to be pointing in towards the middle of the car. That means they're going to be driving force inwards. And what this does is it massively improves the amount of grip that the car has when we are on throttle. Where we want to set this wheel toe is all the way to the right. 0.7. Now people may think this is crazy. This is actually not much to at all. 0.7 ms or 0.7. No, this is 0.7° is such a small amount of toe. If you go to Formula Drift, for example, a lot of those cars are running 2° plus 3°, 4°. Uh 0.7° is nothing. I'm pretty sure in CarX drift racing online, this goes up to two and you I frequently would run 2°. You could run even more than that. We're going to do the dampers last. So, we're going to skip straight to this braking force here. We want as little braking force as possible. The brakes are super s sensitive in this game, so we want this all the way down. And this front brake balance, I like to set to 85 on ultimate brakes. This is going to give us the best balance of braking force and brake balance so we can left foot brake behind people without the car wanting to just come to a complete stop. So this is how I set this on every single car or I leave the brakes completely stock. I don't touch them. Probably the most complicated thing in this game, which is damper tuning. The way this works for a drift car is we want to make the front end of the car as responsive and planted as possible. So, we want it to be a very, very stable platform and always return into its original state. So, we can maintain our front suspension geometry and responsiveness. And then the rear of the car, we want to be able to let the suspension set and compress whilst we're on throttle. And we want it to stay there so that the rear of the car is not oscillating and changing our contact patch of our tires. So, the way dampers work is increasing out a damping rate is essentially slowing down this process here. So bump slow by the way means essentially internal forces and fast bump is external forces. So slow bump this is going to affect our weight transfer of the car. Fast bump is going to affect how the car absorbs bumps like on the road for example or hitting a ripple strip or gutters and things like that. Increasing our slow bump means that it's going to resist bumps or in this case weight transfers more aggressively. it's going to take more force, going to be less likely to compress the wheel when we're doing aggressive weight transfers. We don't want that on the rear of the car. We want the car to be able to compress. So, we want to bring this down. And same with our fast bump rate. Rebound rates is how quickly and how much the car resists returning to its original state. So, returning back to this original height and it works in the same way. So increasing this is going to increase the resistance of the shock. So it's going to making this higher means it's going to take longer for the shock to return to its full fully extended state. Having this lower means that it's pretty much going to rebound immediately. As soon as it compresses, it's pushing it straight back up. So what we want to do, like I said, we want the rear of the car to be able to set really easily. So we've reduced the resistance of our compression dampening or our bump dampening. What we want to do then is we want to increase our rebound so that the car the rear suspension of the car releases slower so it stays in that compressed state for longer which is going to promote grip because when the car is compressed we're getting more toe and our tire is being pushed into the ground. So we want we want to be in that state for as long as possible. really soft bump and a really stiff rebound because this means that the back of the car can compress and it's going to stay there. For the front of the car, we want it we want the suspension resetting to this position as much as possible. We also don't want it compressing because that means that there's a weight pushing into the front wheels, which means that these front wheels are less likely to slide, right? And we're less likely to be responsive. But we basically want to do the opposite of what we've done to the rear here. So, we want to resist compression so that the car is less likely to press down on these front springs, and we want to lower the resistance of the rebound. So, let's say we do hit a bump or our weight transfer does push down on these front wheels, our rebound is immediately going to press back up on our shocks and return it to this position. This plays into our anti-roll bar stiffness by increasing the jacking effect onto the rear wheels, which are going to be compressed by pushing all of the force from the front back up and then pushes it into the back. But this is also going to mean that we're always going to be in this idle position, this uncompressed state as often as possible, which gives us maximum responsiveness from the front suspension. So, that's our full full suspension setup that you can basically copy onto every single car with some minor adjustments. And I hope that I've explained that stuff well enough that you can apply this to other cars and change it to how you like. All right, so now that we've gotten our suspension set up, let's dive into our wheel and tire setup, which is so much simpler. So, obviously for spaces, we're just going to go straight for ultimate spaces so we can fine-tune them as we want. Our wheels, so this is going to depend on our gearbox setup. Obviously, the gearbox setup that I've used is perfect for 18-in wheels, which I think I mentioned when I set it up. So, anything between 17 and 19, you're really not going to have to change much of those gearbox ratios. Then, I stick to a 265 front and a 285 front as a baseline to start from. And, uh, the reason I do this is the narrower tire on the front actually gives it less mass and less flex, which means it's going to be way more responsive, which allows the front of the car to be a lot more aggressive. And then the rear having this slightly wider tire gives us a little bit more mass and flex for things like clutch kicks and launches and initiations and things like that. You get a lot more of initial grip by having a wider tire. And you can maximize this by going up even higher like a 345. But then of course it's going to make the back of the car feel a little bit more lazy and take a little bit more effort to get it to do what you want it to do if you want to drive aggressively. For a straight tire setup, I really like this 265 285. I think it maximizes the uh the grip physics in the game whilst also taking advantage of the uh balance of tire flex versus response. Speaking of that, the stretch versus racing tires does actually make a big difference. So, my baseline is just to throw stretch tires on to start with because of the way the game simulates tire flex. When you install stretch tires, it actually basically gets rid of tire flex altogether. And as I was saying with the uh having less tire flex from having a skinnier tire, if you get rid of the tire flex pretty much altogether, it means you have a very very responsive tire. So putting stretch tires especially on the front is going to make the car feel very very aggressive and very responsive things like flicks and faints and manges. If you feel like you need more grip um for things like clutch kicks and and stuff like that, if you're driving very aggressively, I would go to a raising tire. This is like my maximum grip. like maximum speed, super aggressive setup. It' be racing in the back and stretch in the front. Um, but depending on the car, it doesn't look very good. So, I'd always try and match it and go I would probably go racing front and back to be honest with you. And it's going to make the front of the car a little bit less nimble, so you have to throw it a bit harder. But, it's going to make the car very very grippy. But to start with, as a baseline, just stretch and stretch. And then for tire pressures and spaces, this makes a huge difference. So, as we went through with our suspension setup, we're actually trying to minimize our front grip so we can take advantage of our acan setup so that our chase wheel can skid and follow our lead wheel. We actually want to increase our front tire pressure as much as possible. This also decreases rolling resistance, which means we're going to have a faster car. And for the rear, I normally bring the rear tire pressure down to 1.5 bar. Some cars all the way down to one, depending on uh depending on the car. I find that with stretch tires, I like to run one. With uh racing tires, I like to run 1.5. For this car, we have the stretch tires on, so I bring it all the way down to one. Once I What that's going to do is it honestly doesn't make a huge difference in terms of grip when you're actually in drift. But for things like uh clutch kicking, uh having less tire pressure increases that tire flex and allows clutch kicks to really um shoot your car forward a lot more. Spaces. Spaces are incredibly important on a drift car. So having a wider front track width is going to give us less effective acan. So if you have a very very narrow front track width with our current acan setup when you're steering, the difference between the wheels is going to be more exaggerated. So if you have a very narrow front track width, you can actually have the wheels kind of fold over on themselves and kind of glitch out. Having a wider front track width prevents that, but it also increases the front stability and also works with our suspension setup to keep the front of the car set. Rear wheel offset is also extremely important. So, the narrower the rear wheels, the more grip the car has and more side bite. So, that means when you've thrown the car sideways, you're actually going to slow down faster and the car is going to have more grip going into corners. So, the way you kind of balance this out, obviously putting it all the way in means you're going to have maximum grip, but it looks terrible. So, the way you want to max this out is I try and set my cars up to be really flush on the rear, but very aggressive on the front. You can really maximize this with the stretch tires. So, this is the kind of fitment that I go for, and it's this very, very aggressive kind of Osaka style fitment from Japan. If you've seen Mayan cars like shirts tucked in N style S15 Alpha or these a lot of the street drifters around there, they have a very similar looking car to this and these are the reasons why it works, right? Because you want to have that wider track width up front and you don't want to be pushing the rear out too far cuz then you start losing grip. This is where everything all starts to come together. All these little things all start to come together to make our car work really, really well. [Music] Okay, and just before we wrap up, I want to show you what this kind of style of tuning is like when it's pushed to the absolute maximum. So, you can see this is a sport tire setup on a 190E Mercedes that is like 900 horsepower CS class. You can see we're running the same style of tire setup. 265 fronts, 305s in the rear this time for that increased flex. And then we're running racing compound for that flex as well, the racing sidewall. We've got our, you know, minmaxed tire pressure setup. And then the suspension. You can, you're going to notice a lot of similarities here. And we've just got we've got extra spring length here to make sure we're getting as much suspension travel as possible. Very, very soft in the rear, very stiff in the front for that maximum grip, but max response kind of setup. Same again for the anti-roll bars. The camber, same again. Even a little bit positive in the rear because we've got all that extra travel. It means this needs more positive camber. So it's flat when it compresses. Maximum caster here, our Acaman again, 66, max steering angle, our wheel toe, max. And then we're going to notice very, very similar damper settings. We've kind of stiffened up the uh front rebound just because with these higher grip setups, kind of the more grip and the more speed, you need to uh you really need to actually stiffen the rebound on the front, otherwise the car is going to hop around a lot. And uh this mostly gets rid of that. So it just keeps the car really really planted and responsive as opposed to with a lower grip setup and a lower speed setup. You want this to be uh you want this to be lower because when there's less force then it's less like it can withstand it when there's less force. But when you've got so a massive grip setup and lots of lots of force being applied to the wheels, they're going to compress. So this means when they do compress, it does actually stay nice and stable. But then the rear dampers, you can see the same kind of setup. And then even this one, red diff with 80 80% locking on it. You can see there. So, very very very similar setup. Gone for a 50/50 weight distribution, but following all the same principles, just completely pushed to the very very very high end of performance. This is what I would consider to be like a competitive level car. All right, so I had a feeling this was going to happen. As you can probably tell, it is now super late, middle of the night. Everyone is gone to sleep except me. I've been sitting here working on this tuning video and it is really, really long. So, if you are still here watching, thank you so much for your support. It means so much to me. All I want to do is be able to help people out. I've loved reading the comments and I love seeing all the people watching and getting knowledge from my grip tuning video using my AI tuning assistance. the the support has been honestly overwhelming and I'm sorry that it's been so long since I've been here in front of the camera and sitting in front of the microphone and helping you guys out, but life has been super busy and this is just a hobby for me. This is something I do on my free time. So, thank you. Thank you so much for the support. I I can't stress that enough. And seeing how well all my other content's been doing and how it's been helping you guys out makes me feel honestly so blessed. And uh I would love to do that more. And the only way I can do that is if you guys go down below, like this video, boost in the algorithm, leave comments so I can get this in front of more and more eyes and hopefully grow my audience and help even more people. If you want to stay connected to what's going on and where I've been active, you can join my Discord community that's going to be down in the description. We got heaps of active tuners and heaps of active players. We're always chatting in there, sharing tunes, sharing pictures. We've got new games coming out like Forsa Horizon 6. We've been talking all about that kind of stuff as well as even picking video topics. This video, for example, was voted on by in a poll in my Discord and there's a more series coming out like I'm going to do a community build review, things like that. So, if you want to get involved in content, be a part of the decisions of what's going to come out on my channel and what you want to see, join my Discord community down below, and I would love to see you in there and chat to you. All right, this has been a long one. I am absolutely smashed. Super tired. So, I'm going to go head to bed. Thank you so so much for watching if you're still here. And I will see you in the next video. pace.